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Sunday, 6 March 2011

The Longest Day...


Bees Nest in the Bushes

It soon becomes clear on an expedition like this that eating is very important.  I hadn't quite realised just how important on day 2 at 06:30 in the morning, but following instructions, I managed 4 bowls of porridge, followed by Sausage, Egg & Beans for breakfast.  I've never had such an appetite.... (except for the odd chocolate binge of course). 

Thank goodness that I did though, for although we didn't know it at the time, today was to be our longest day!  If yesterday was the trailer, today we had the whole movie, and it did end in tears!!

We'd expected a day, according to the schedule of about 9 hours, but when news came from Nelson that there would be no cooked lunch today, but a packed lunch instead, the alarm bells were ringing.  If you have ever wondered what a little altitude does for your energy levels, then today was a great example.  13-14kms covered, in just under 12 hours!!

As we set off from our camp at Big Tree (2700m) we were soon out of the deepest rainforest, and the trees began to thin out.  Lichen still tumbles off like an old man's beard from the branches of many trees.


An Elephant's Spine










Interesting stuff lichen.... apparently it forms a symbiotic relationship between an algae, and a fungus, (Thanks Dominic) but as it hangs limp from the branches of the forest it gives trees an appearance of huge age.  We saw lots of lichen, a plant I knew very little about prior to Kilimanjaro. Apparently there is a crusty variety that grows on the rocks, (and also in Ceri's knickers?...or so she advised. A fact that remains without formal verification, but her story was convincing). 


We entered a moonscape land, huge rocks that had been spewed by the volcano over millions of years pepper the earth, some 30 miles from summit, giving credence to the power that lay beneath our feet.  Kilimanjaro is still a living volcano, with eruptions recorded as recently as 200 years ago. 

As we walked, and the vegetation thinned around us, we had our first close up glimpses of Kilimanjaro. Towering above us in the distance, teasing us with just the odd "peak" through clouds all afternoon.  It was really only this view, and the prospect that she may at last show us her body that encouraged us onwards.  The landscape was littered with huge boulders, and the 9km from Big Tree Camp to Shira 1 was endless, and punishing. 

Nelson described it as climbing an elephant's spine.  We steadily rose from 2700m to 3560m, but in the heat, and altitude it was taking a toll on everyone in the group.

Lunch, when it came was inadequate.  Our packed lunches, enjoyed near Shira 1 consisted of just a small sandwich, a tiny piece of chicken, a small cake and a dairy milk...plus some mango juice to wash it down?
I think this was possibly the only thing that could have been handled slightly better on the whole trip, but for such a long day, the lunch really did little for our cheer, or motivation.

Thankfully, Kili continued to tease, and persuade us onwards.  Our target today was Shira 2, roughly 4km, and 300 meters further up from Shira 1.   Had we chosen to do an 8 day trip, rather than the 7, then a further day's trek away.  As it was, Dominic advised that the benefit of such a hard day today would be time to rest nearer the summit night, so it was a small price to pay in sore knees, or feet.

Two events were to change the whole mood of the day, just when everyone in the group was flagging. We were just 30 minutes short of our goal, when we were greeted by our porters, who had come out from the camp with tea and popcorn.  Never has it tasted so good!! 

The relief, and the happiness that this created in the group was palpable.  Without it, for sure we would have never had the energy to appreciate the final offering of the day.... Just 30 minutes before dusk, the clouds cleared, and Kilimanjaro loomed large, magestic, and magnificent above us.

This was our first look at what lay ahead, and she was hypnotising.  Amazing in her beauty, and power.  As we reached, possibly the most fantastic campsite on earth, my tears flowed....there are few sites that could have had such a dramatic affect, but walking into camp, after such a long, and testing day to the view that greeted us was magnificent, emotional, and overpowering.  This was why we were all here, we reflected on our private goals, and saw justification for such a hard day's trek.  I longed to share it with those I love.


Later, as I woke she continued to tower over us, shining under a full moon, and a sky full of stars.  I wrote in my diary, "I am overawed here, it is just the most amazing place on earth, the scale and magnificence of this mountain is just fantastic"

Longest day it may have been, but for me this was where our trial really started.

1 comment:

  1. Ha ha ha - can I just clear up that naughty little rumour!? The crusty litchen didn't actually 'grow' in my knickers but was certainly found in there after a quick toilet break behind a litchen covered rock..............................honest guv. X

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