The Longest Day...



Bees Nest in the Bushes



It soon becomes clear on an expedition like this that eating is very important.  I hadn't quite realised just how important on day 2 at 06:30 in the morning, but following instructions, I managed 4 bowls of porridge, followed by Sausage, Egg & Beans for breakfast.  I've never had such an appetite.... (except for the odd chocolate binge of course). 

Thank goodness that I did though, for although we didn't know it at the time, today was to be our longest day!  If yesterday was the trailer, today we had the whole movie, and it did end in tears!!

We'd expected a day, according to the schedule of about 9 hours, but when news came from Nelson that there would be no cooked lunch today, but a packed lunch instead, the alarm bells were ringing.  If you have ever wondered what a little altitude does for your energy levels, then today was a great example.  13-14kms covered, in just under 12 hours!!

As we set off from our camp at Big Tree (2700m) we were soon out of the deepest rainforest, and the trees began to thin out.  Lichen still tumbles off like an old man's beard from the branches of many trees.



An Elephant's Spine



Interesting stuff lichen.... apparently it forms a symbiotic relationship between an algae, and a fungus, (Thanks Dominic) but as it hangs limp from the branches of the forest it gives trees an appearance of huge age.  We saw lots of lichen, a plant I knew very little about prior to Kilimanjaro. Apparently there is a crusty variety that grows on the rocks, (and also in Ceri's knickers?...or so she advised. A fact that remains without formal verification, but her story was convincing). 



We entered a moonscape land, huge rocks that had been spewed by the volcano over millions of years pepper the earth, some 30 miles from summit, giving credence to the power that lay beneath our feet.  Kilimanjaro is still a living volcano, with eruptions recorded as recently as 200 years ago. 

As we walked, and the vegetation thinned around us, we had our first close up glimpses of Kilimanjaro. Towering above us in the distance, teasing us with just the odd "peak" through clouds all afternoon.  It was really only this view, and the prospect that she may at last show us her body that encouraged us onwards.  The landscape was littered with huge boulders, and the 9km from Big Tree Camp to Shira 1 was endless, and punishing. 

Nelson described it as climbing an elephant's spine.  We steadily rose from 2700m to 3560m, but in the heat, and altitude it was taking a toll on everyone in the group.

Lunch, when it came was inadequate.  Our packed lunches, enjoyed near Shira 1 consisted of just a small sandwich, a tiny piece of chicken, a small cake and a dairy milk...plus some mango juice to wash it down?

I think this was possibly the only thing that could have been handled slightly better on the whole trip, but for such a long day, the lunch really did little for our cheer, or motivation.

Thankfully, Kili continued to tease, and persuade us onwards.  Our target today was Shira 2, roughly 4km, and 300 meters further up from Shira 1.   Had we chosen to do an 8 day trip, rather than the 7, then a further day's trek away.  As it was, Dominic advised that the benefit of such a hard day today would be time to rest nearer the summit night, so it was a small price to pay in sore knees, or feet.

Two events were to change the whole mood of the day, just when everyone in the group was flagging. We were just 30 minutes short of our goal, when we were greeted by our porters, who had come out from the camp with tea and popcorn.  Never has it tasted so good!! 

The relief, and the happiness that this created in the group was palpable.  Without it, for sure we would have never had the energy to appreciate the final offering of the day.... Just 30 minutes before dusk, the clouds cleared, and Kilimanjaro loomed large, magestic, and magnificent above us.

This was our first look at what lay ahead, and she was hypnotising.  Amazing in her beauty, and power.  As we reached, possibly the most fantastic campsite on earth, my tears flowed....there are few sites that could have had such a dramatic affect, but walking into camp, after such a long, and testing day to the view that greeted us was magnificent, emotional, and overpowering.  This was why we were all here, we reflected on our private goals, and saw justification for such a hard day's trek.  I longed to share it with those I love.

Later, as I woke she continued to tower over us, shining under a full moon, and a sky full of stars.  I wrote in my diary, "I am overawed here, it is just the most amazing place on earth, the scale and magnificence of this mountain is just fantastic"

Longest day it may have been, but for me this was where our trial really started.

Day 1 - Big Tree Camp

So, after a long journey and a final night of luxury we were ready to set off on our first day's trek.

First there was the small matter of a three hour trip in the land cruiser round the mountain to the Londorosi entrance gate, to check in.  Kilimanjaro, despite the vast open landscapes is a tightly controlled park area, and every guest must be checked in, not once.... but every day, and at every camp!!  

Most of the time, Dominic, our Action Challenge guide looked after this admin, but for the first day we all signed in for ourselves.  You cannot climb this mountain independently, every group must have a guide, and porters.   Probably a way of ensuring the economy in Tanzania gets a boost, but actually as the week goes on and you see just how much work these guys get through, you'll be delighted for the support.

Along the route to the Londorosi gate, it's clear that Tanzania is a country with a rich farming land.  Fields of coffee, banana, and Sunflowers provide rich colours alongside the roadways. 

At the camp our bags are sorted, porters chosen, and a never ending supply of sacks are weighed for the journey ahead.  Each porter is allowed to carry up to 25kgs!!!  of which 15kgs is the maximum allowed in our overnight bags.  (Mine was 13kg).  All the bags are weighed, and porters have their kit checked to ensure that they have suitable coat, boots etc for the trip themselves.   It may be a well paid job in this environment, but there is no doubt, this is a tough life!!  

From the Londorosi gate we were off again in the 4x4 to the start point about an hour further up the way, very much off road now, our trucks bounced us off the walls, the roof, and almost the trees too as the driver skillfully negotiated a rugged, and very rutted route, which had been flooded just days earlier up into the forest. 

Even so, despite driving like a world rally champion, our driver could not make it up quite as far as he would have planned.  One group following us tried, and within 100 meters were completely beached in the mud, and water.

Nelson, our head guide is now on his 121st trip up Kilimanjaro quickly get us on our way. Like most of the porters and guides, he could very well run up this mountain, with the minimum of effort, but sets off Pole Pole, a speed we will appreciate as the days go by!!

Todays trek will take us up through the lower reaches of Kilimanjaro, and the first of 4 very distinct climate zones.  We'll be walking through deep rainforest, huge trees, and colourful plants, the scale of which you could only imagine block our path, but we wind on through a muddy path, steadily upwards from 2100m to our final target of 2700m.

Not much in the expected wildlife on the way, the closest we came to spotting some life in the forest other than ourselves was some elephant dung, although the sounds, and noise from thousands of hidden crickets and bees was deafening at times.   It's a slippy path in places, and I chose the first day to entertain most of our group by twice slipping over in the muck, (not the elephant variety) leaving what would be my signature dirty mark on my trousers for the rest of the journey!!

 

The porters were treated to some additional entertainment, as poor Hannah discovered that they tend to follow you up the mountain much quicker than expected!!  (Note to self.... if you need the loo, make sure you go deeper into the bushes than just a few feet off the path!!)  I think he may have come through

cheering!!

It was amazingly hot, and humid in the rainforest, and I had a bit of a headache today on the way up.  We actually only covered about 5km before arriving at Big Tree Camp, our first stop under canvas for the week.  Despite this, it took almost 5 hours on the route, which undulated wildly, and even on the first day was a physical challenge.   (A bit later, the heat and humidity had the undesired effect of causing me to be sick, for the first, and only time of the week). 

Our camp, in a cutting within the forest was beautiful, and before dinner our porters entertained us with some songs to welcome us on our Kilimanjaro adventure.  

Jambo, Jambo Bwana (Hello, Hello Sir)

Habari gani (How are you?)

Nzuri sana (Very good)   

Wageni, mwakaribishwa (Visitors, you're welcome)

Kilimanjaro yetu (to Kilimanjaro) 

Hakuna matata (thers no problem)

Dinner, of Soup, followed by rice,spinnach, peas & beef followed before we got ready for our first night under the stars... Tired and happy :-)